10+ hoursTime in the Channel after which Gleitze's Oyster still worked, per Rolex
GBP 17,037Price realised for Gleitze's Oyster at Christie's, 21 June 2000
31 x 27 mmCase size of the octagonal 9ct gold Oyster Gleitze wore
3Parts screwed to the middle case to seal it: bezel, case back and crown
- 1922 to 1925
Searching for a sealed case
In 1922 Rolex launched the Submarine, a watch hinged inside a second outer case that had to be opened to reach the crown. In 1925 Paul Perregaux and Georges Perret filed the Swiss patent for a screw-down crown that Rolex later acquired.
- 1926
The Oyster is patented
Rolex sealed the case by screwing the bezel, back and crown against the middle case, and patented the design in 1926. Hans Wilsdorf named it after an oyster, which can stay under water without harm.
- 1927
Proof in the Channel
Mercedes Gleitze carried an Oyster during her Channel swim of 1927, and the watch came out in working order after more than 10 hours in cold water. Rolex celebrated with a full-page advert on the front page of the Daily Mail, the start of its Testimonee idea.
- Late 1920s
Octagons and cushions
The first Oysters came in octagonal and cushion cases of silver, 9ct gold or steel, with milled bezels, screw-down crowns and fixed wire lugs. A silver octagonal Oyster with Glasgow import marks for 1926 measures 33 x 31 mm.
- 1930 to 1935
Tested in the air
Rolex used aviator Captain C.D. Barnard in a 1930 advert to show the Oyster at altitude. Rolex also records that the first expedition to fly over Everest was equipped with Rolex Oysters.
- 1930s
Steel octagons and tonneaux
Through the 1930s the octagonal ref. 2136 sold in 9ct gold and steel at about 32 mm, and the steel ref. 2280 Oyster Royal appeared around 1935 at about 30 mm. Some early cases are stamped Oyster Watch Co. on the back.
✦2000. On 21 June 2000 Christie's sold the Oyster Precision worn by Gleitze during her Vindication Channel Swim, by descent from her family, for GBP 17,037. It had been shown at Rolex's 50th anniversary reception in Greenwich in 1976.
✦1927. Rolex bought a full-page advert on the front page of the Daily Mail to announce the swim, which Rolex calls the birth of its Testimonee concept.
✦1926. Hans Wilsdorf said he chose the name because, like an oyster, the watch could stay under water for an unlimited time without damage to its parts.