1931year Rolex patented the Perpetual winding rotor
HK$302,400paid for a turquoise OP 41 at Phillips in 2022
70 hourspower reserve of the calibre 3230 in the OP 41 and OP 36
22 yearsproduction run of the Bubbleback
- 1926 to 1931
A sealed case, then a rotor
Rolex unveiled the Oyster case in 1926, an airtight shell meant to keep water, dust and moisture away from the movement. In 1927 Hans Wilsdorf gave one to swimmer Mercedes Gleitze for her English Channel attempt. In 1931 Rolex patented the Perpetual rotor, which winds the movement from the motion of the wrist, and the Oyster Perpetual concept was born.
- 1930s to mid 1950s
The Bubbleback years
The first Oyster Perpetuals carried a domed caseback to make room for the winding rotor, which earned them the nickname Bubbleback. Phillips describes them as the first Rolex wristwatches to combine waterproofing, self-winding and chronometer precision. The design stayed in production until the mid 1950s.
- 1952 to 1967
Proven on summits and oceans
In 1952 Rolex patented reversing wheels so the rotor winds the mainspring in both directions. Oyster Perpetual watches were part of the equipment of the 1953 British Everest expedition. In 1966 and 1967 Francis Chichester sailed solo around the world carrying an Oyster Perpetual chronometer.
- 1960s to 1985
The everyday time-only Rolex
In the 1960s the 34mm reference 1002 offered the Oyster Perpetual formula in its simplest form, sometimes as a gold presentation watch on a leather strap. In 1985 Rolex became the first watch brand to machine some cases from solid blocks of 904L steel, the alloy that later defined the range.
- 2014 to 2019
A named range, a 39mm flagship
Rolex listed Oyster Perpetual as a range of its own in the catalogue in 2014. In 2015 the 39mm reference 114300 became the largest model of the line.
- 2020 to 2025
41mm and loud lacquer dials
In 2020 the 41mm reference 124300 replaced the 39mm model and brought the calibre 3230. Lacquered dials in candy pink, turquoise, yellow, coral red and green arrived and quickly built long waiting lists. In 2023 Rolex added Celebration dials covered in coloured bubbles.
- 2026
One hundred years of Oyster
For the Oyster case centenary Rolex released a yellow Rolesor edition in 31, 36 and 41 mm. The winding crown carries the number 100 and the words 100 years replace Swiss Made at 6 o'clock.
✦2024. A 2021 turquoise OP 41 opened Phillips' New York Watch Auction XI as lot 1 and sold for $24,130.
✦2022. Months after Rolex discontinued the turquoise OP 41, Phillips sold one in Hong Kong for HK$302,400 on an estimate of HK$40,000 to 60,000.
✦1953. Oyster Perpetual watches went up with the British Everest expedition; leader John Hunt reported that they performed splendidly.
✦1927. Mercedes Gleitze wore a Rolex Oyster for more than 10 hours in the English Channel and later called it absolutely waterproof.
✦1930s. The nickname comes from the domed caseback needed to fit the thickness of the first winding rotor.