52509‑0002
Perpetual 1908 (Black Dial)
Lug width: 20 mm
Source: DatabaseCase size: 39 mmBlack dial
- Attachment
- classic lugs
- Status
- Listed in our database, not yet verified
The story · Since 1908
The story of the Rolex Perpetual
Rolex named its first new collection in decades after 1908, the year Hans Wilsdorf registered the Rolex name, and a month after its launch Roger Federer wore it on the Met Gala red carpet. Whether in yellow gold, white gold or platinum, the 39 mm case takes a 20 mm strap.
- 1908 A name registered in Switzerland Hans Wilsdorf devised the name Rolex to sign his watches and registered it in Switzerland in 1908.
- 1931 The rotor behind the name In 1931 Rolex invented and patented a self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor.
- 2023 The Cellini gives way At Watches and Wonders 2023 Rolex dropped the Cellini and launched the Perpetual collection with the 1908 in yellow gold (ref. 52508) and white gold (ref. 52509).
- 2023 to 2026 Rare sightings, big stages The 1908 has been seen rarely in public, which made each appearance news: Roger Federer at the 2023 Met Gala, Iga Swiatek with her trophies, Russell Crowe in Toronto and Leonardo DiCaprio at the 2026 Oscars.
- 2024 Platinum and engine turning The 1908 ref. 52506 arrived in 950 platinum with an ice-blue dial carrying a rice-grain guilloche.
- 2025 A bracelet of seven links Rolex gave the yellow gold 1908 its first metal bracelet, the Settimo, with rows of seven small domed links and a concealed Crownclasp.
9.5 mm
case thickness of the 1908, against 11.1 mm for the Cellini Time it replaced
Worn by
Roger Federer, Iga Swiatek, Russell Crowe, Leonardo DiCaprio
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9.5 mmcase thickness of the 1908, against 11.1 mm for the Cellini Time it replaced
66 hourspower reserve of calibre 7140
$10,500price gap in the US between the yellow gold 1908 on leather and on the Settimo bracelet at launch
7small link elements across each row of the Settimo bracelet, which takes its name from the Italian for seventh
Chapters
- 1908
A name registered in Switzerland
Hans Wilsdorf devised the name Rolex to sign his watches and registered it in Switzerland in 1908. More than a century later, Rolex gave that year to its dress watch as a name.
- 1931
The rotor behind the name
In 1931 Rolex invented and patented a self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor. Rolex says the 1908 is inspired by one of the first watches fitted with that rotor, and its Arabic 3, 9 and 12 echo that watch.
- 2023
The Cellini gives way
At Watches and Wonders 2023 Rolex dropped the Cellini and launched the Perpetual collection with the 1908 in yellow gold (ref. 52508) and white gold (ref. 52509). The case is 39 mm and 9.5 mm thick, against 11.1 mm for the Cellini Time, thanks to the new calibre 7140 seen through a sapphire back.
- 2023 to 2026
Rare sightings, big stages
The 1908 has been seen rarely in public, which made each appearance news: Roger Federer at the 2023 Met Gala, Iga Swiatek with her trophies, Russell Crowe in Toronto and Leonardo DiCaprio at the 2026 Oscars.
- 2024
Platinum and engine turning
The 1908 ref. 52506 arrived in 950 platinum with an ice-blue dial carrying a rice-grain guilloche. Revolution calls it the first engine-turned guilloche dial from Rolex in modern times, cut on a traditional rose engine.
- 2025
A bracelet of seven links
Rolex gave the yellow gold 1908 its first metal bracelet, the Settimo, with rows of seven small domed links and a concealed Crownclasp. It leaves a deliberate gap at the case, with no fitted end links, for a vintage look.
Worn by
Roger FedererSport2023
As a co-host of the 1 May 2023 Met Gala he wore a white gold, black-dial 1908, the first public appearance of the watch, and said it added timeless elegance to his look.
Iga SwiatekSport2023
The Rolex Testimonee chose a yellow gold, white-dial 1908 to celebrate her WTA Finals win in Cancun in November 2023, and wore ref. M52508-0006 with the Indian Wells trophy in March 2024.
Russell CroweScreen2025
Wore his platinum ice-blue 1908 on a chocolate brown strap at the Toronto premiere of Nuremberg in September 2025 and posted wrist shots of it; on his watch channel he calls it the watch he loves wearing for special occasions.
Leonardo DiCaprioScreen2026
The Rolex Testimonee wore the platinum ice-blue 1908 ref. 52506 on a matte black alligator strap at the 2026 Oscars, a personal red-carpet choice, not a film role.
Moments
2026. Best Actor nominee Leonardo DiCaprio passed on his usual Daytona for a platinum 1908, while his film One Battle After Another won Best Picture.
2024. Indian Wells, 17 March 2024: Swiatek beat Maria Sakkari 6-4, 6-0 and posed with the trophy wearing a yellow gold 1908 ref. M52508-0006 on a brown alligator strap.
2023. Met Gala, New York, 1 May 2023: barely a month after the launch, co-host Roger Federer wore a white gold, black-dial 1908, its first appearance in public.
2023. WTA Finals, Cancun, November 2023: Iga Swiatek won the title, regained the world No. 1 ranking and celebrated in a yellow gold 1908.
Generations and strap changes
- 2025Refs. 52508-0007 and 52508-0008, Settimo
The yellow gold 1908 on the Settimo bracelet, black dial (0007) or white dial (0008). Fratello notes gold screws instead of pins for sizing.
Settimo is offered only on the yellow gold 1908; Rolex says the bracelet was created exclusively for this watch.
- 2024Ref. 52506, platinum ice blue
950 platinum case with an ice-blue rice-grain guilloche dial and white gold markers; Monochrome measures about 47 mm lug to lug.
Monochrome lists a 20 mm alligator strap in matte black or matte brown with a platinum Dualclasp.
- 2023Ref. 52508, yellow gold
Launch model in 18k yellow gold with intense white or intense black dial, calibre 7140, 66-hour power reserve and 50 m water resistance.
Fratello gives 20 mm lug spacing and a 20 mm alligator strap with gold double-folding clasp; Rolex fits a Dualclasp.
- 2023Ref. 52509, white gold
The same 39 mm by 9.5 mm case in 18k white gold, the version Roger Federer wore with a black dial to the Met Gala.
Same 20 mm lug spacing as the 52508 per Fratello's shared specification.